However, last two times I disconnected the battery, the lights (check engine) came on right away. Disconnect the battery, lights go away for a month or so. I have been lurking here for quite a while. So if you have bad sensors, they are easy to get and replace, but if your sensors are good, then at least you know 100% for sure before you fork out for a new cat + labor. A bad heated oxygen sensor (bank 1 sensor 2), the sensor after the catĭo you have access to a multi-meter? If so I can show you how to test the sensors yourself, its pretty easy. A bad A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1), the sensor before the catģ. That code will be P0420, not with a 2 at the front.Basically the ECM observes the electrical waveform of the sensor located behind the cat to determine if the catalyst is functioning normally. How can I, the quick learning auto owner, determine if gas is leaking on the exhaust system? odors, residue, etc.?Īll of the information that has been posted in reply to my first post has been enlightening, and truly appreciated. Can I get the 02 sensor replaced (since this is the least expensive route) and if that doesn't fix the problem, then know it is the front cat that is bad?ģ. Can I rule out a malfunctioning A/F ratio sensor since I had it replaced 11K miles ago?Ģ. The the CEL came back on some time later, but have had no noticeable changes in performance.ġ. Cks ok."Īlso had fuel injection service done in July. R&R air fuel ratio sensor bank 1 sensor 1 & rechecked. "code P1135-Open heater circuit air fuel ratio sensor bank 1, sensor 1. I did have service done in July on the vehicle due to: I'm a Pittsburgh area native and have no familiarity w/ emissions until I lived in VA Bought it certified used at beginning of 2003 in Virginia. This whole experience is new to me and I learning alot as I go. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a multi-meter, or even where I could get access to one.
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